SPECIAL EPISODE : IRISH PUB OF THE WEEK – 📍THE SOUTH POLE INN, ANNASCAUL

Many pubs claim to have an interesting backstory:

“In Victorian times, this pub was primarily used as a weasel-wrestling den”

/ ‘‘It was in this very bar the Kray Twins had their first ever Cup-o-soup.

/ ”Theses premises were said to be a medieval reliquary for the royal ashtrays of King Cnut” …etc etc…

But to my mind, no origin story can compete with the South Pole Inn, Annascaul , Co Kerry. The South Pole Inn, as the astute observer may note, is confusingly located approx 20,000 km North of the actual South Pole. The reason for its nomenclature can be traced to the life of one man -the pub’s founder, local boy Tom Crean.

Tom was a farmer’s son who joined the British Navy around the turn of the 20th Century. Over time, he became one of the most fearless and reliable of all polar explorers, recruited to join numerous trips of daring and bravado where he modestly performed insane feats of bravery and endurance , putting to shame those people who think they’re great because they did the Hackney Half Marathon. Crean established a reputation as an essential addition when assembling a crew for the golden age of Antarctic Exploration. The famous recruitment ad of Earnest Shackleton (below) hints at the craic to be had; 

Crean’s numerous escapes and escapades are the stuff of legend. On the infamous Terra Nova Expedition, aiming to be the first to reach the South Pole, he and 2 others took a sled 2000 ft down an icy peak in Antarctica , narrowly avoiding massive crevasses. Sounds equally fun and terrifying. When it came to dividing up the team for the final leg , Scott (of the Antarctic) decided against bringing Crean, who it is said wept in disappointment on missing out. Great to see one of the toughest men alive in touch with his emotions. Good lad . Alas, Scott’s party famously all perished, reaching the pole days after the Norwegians and becoming trapped in a blizzard. For Crean’s delegation, running low on supplies and days away from safety themselves, it looked as if they to0 would share the same fate . So it was decided that Crean should trek for help, with nowt but a couple of biscuits, solo over 56 km through the Antarctic wastelands till he found help. He did so, collapsing in exhaustion on arrival after 18hrs walk and narrowly missing a snowstorm. His group all survived, earning him the Albert Medal for Lifesaving from the King.

 One would imagine this would be enough legendary behaviour, but Crean returns to the Antarctic again with Shackleton on the Endurance, only to be stuck on pack ice for over 492 days. Crean would tend to the dogs, and pictures of him with a big heap of pups cement his legendary status. His visage rivals Che Guevara in the iconography stakes, but while Che was a bit of an arse, Crean was widely liked, and would keep up the men’s spirits with singing and stories to take peoples minds from almost certain death. If you’re selecting a crew, you needed Crean as the ultimate vibesman. 

On returning to Annascaul, he used his money to open the South Pole inn, and never spoke about his experiences in the age of polar exploration. At that time, the Irish War of independence had begun, so his British Navy career had to be played down-Kerry, after all, was prime Bandit Country. Also, due to his standing, it was the lofty ennobled Expedition Leaders who received press and interviews, not the taciturn Kerryman.

His pub still stands by the river in Annascaul, a picturesque village on the Dingle Peninsula. The pub is popular as a stopover on the tourist trek to Dingle but also with locals, havin’ pints There are a range of Crean Beers made by his ancestors if you fancy, as well as a replica of one of the lifeboats they converted to sail 1000s of miles from Antartica to South Georgia. As the ultimate accolade, a lego replica of the Endurance with lego crew is also available. Lest we forget…..

Its great to see his pub still going strong, and this museum/ restaurant/ public house hybrid is well worth the scenic trip over -If you ever find yourself in the vicinity of the South Pole. The other South Pole.

*For the first time, I was joined by my Mom and Dad on this trip . We recommend the goat’s cheese salad. Thanks both xx