Bilbao seems ripe for a decent Irish Pub. The Basque Country and Ireland have loads in common; a oceanic temperate climate ( RAIN ) , a unique language bemusing the rest of the world with seemingly unpronounceable names, bad dudes making bad terrorisms / bravely fighting for independence ( delete as applicable) and a fondness for a daycent black pudding

A Miliesian, looking cool AF in his finery

In Irish history and mythology , it was long hypothesised that the Irish descended from a peoples from northern Spain called Milesians (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milesians_(Irish)) There’s no physical evidence ( or any evidence at all of this except in the ancient annals ) , so it might just be that we couldn’t just admit we probably came from our neighbours to the east and choose the basque/ Galicians as they are pretty good fellows . Good story though

Checking out Bilbao , two things appear in my favour the weekend I arrive : # 1 a rugby game is on when I visit – the Basques like their rugby unlike their tiki -taka brethren of Castilla and Catalonia. And #2 the pub has a decent name , not some generic shite like ‘Molly Malone’ , ‘James Joyce’ or the sublimely literal “Irish Pub” .

The Wicklow Arms is cosy , like a house party cosy but with two non-stop Guinness taps in full flow. When I get there , the pints are lining up ready for degustation , among Canadian, Scottish , Irish and Basque accents mixing together . I’ve taken my note pad for the taking of notes , and have it tucked under my arm when I go to order.First of all it is mistaken by some for the Good Book (The Bible. Or Koran, or Torah, or that book about Hyyge ; whichever is your preference ) . The owner , Micheal , spots the notebook. ‘You won’t get much reading done here’ he says across as he launches another pint. I tell him of my true cause for being there.

‘What’s the blog called ? ‘ he says

‘Publican enemy ‘ I tell him

‘Jaysus, I better be careful so ‘

He tells me he’s from Greystones in Wicklow- a place i know well myself having spent many summers there with cousins (#whimsical coincidence no.1.) He then goes on to tell me that the pub has been mentioned in dispatches by Guinness themselves for being one of the top selling Guinness pubs in Spain * (Disclaimer: I am keenly aware I am in the Basque Country ) . Given the size of the place, this is wholly impressive and I make sure to aid their attempts to keep hitting their quotas

The place is hopping, and everyone is shoulder to shoulder. I go outside to try and take a decent photo of the place. A Basque girl is talking to a Londoner animatedly outside. She spots the notebook . ‘Where are you from ? Why do you have a book?’ she asks

I tell her I’m from Kerry , and my name is Colm . The girl and the Londoner erupt into laughter , and start shouting into the pub.

‘Colm , Colm , come here’; shouts the Basque girl, confusing me as I’m standing right beside her. Out of the pub stands a tall , bearded gent about my age and thrusts out his hand. ‘Colm, nice to meet you , my name’s Colm …from Kerry ‘ ‘Whereabouts in Kerry ? ‘ ‘just outside Tralee . Yourself ? ‘ I tell him, “just outside Tralee “and discover that my father is/was/ may still be his postman (#2). This serendipitous meeting sends the regulars into hysterics, and for the rest of the night various Basques, Scots et al start shouting ‘I’m Colm ‘ in a Sparticus -like homage.

*the meeting of the two Colms, seen here as the photos get progressively shiter due to general messin’

‘So what do you do Colm?’

‘I’m an English teacher. And yourself Colm?

‘I teach English ‘ (#3 )

Everyone erupts again.

After leaving the Wicklow Arms , I decide to drop into the chain Irish pub nearby for one more. The place is cavernous and it has the obligatory Bicycle hanging from the ceiling as almost all bars back home don’t( we Irish prefer to chain our bikes outside pubs ; not sure where this hanging from the ceiling thing came from- is there a school of Irish pub interior design where this stuff is taught maybe? ). The Wicklow Arms might have no bicycle from the roof, but it does have a plaque from Guinness themselves on the walls ( See photo for lack of clarity on what the actual plaque says- n.b. 5 pints in at that stage) and that shoulder to shoulder bustle that makes a pub work. Ask any Colm and they’ll tell you the same .